I visited Mexico City. Naturally, I went to a baseball game.
International league games have a reputation for being more eclectic and festive than American games, so I was eager to experience the hype. It did not disappoint.
Estadio Alfredo Harp Helu, home to the Diablos Rojos del Mexico, is a beautiful ballpark that outshines quite a few of its Major League counterparts. It resides inside a F1 course which resides inside a larger public park that hosted the 1968 Olympics. That’s how public infrastructure is done! MLB would never. The stadium itself is two-tiered—barely—so it has the intimate feel of a Minor League park. The defining feature, though somewhat hard to describe, is a beautiful spear (?) or eagle (?) shaped roof that covers most of the infield seats and concourse. One glaring difference is the technology definitely lags behind American parks. There is no radar gun reading and for better or worse, the two outfield videoboards are small with limited messages and entertainment (I.E. the cap shuffle). Although one time, and only one time, they used a Sponge Bob “ruido” graphic to get fans to make noise.
The ballpark has an open concourse that allows a view of the action, with food areas behind the plate and down the left field and right field lines. The food was somewhat of a let down compared to the local options, but much better than 90% of the stadium food I’ve had in the States. The hot dog, even without ketchup and mustard, was miles better than any other park I’ve been to. Along with a hot dog, I make it a point to get an ice cream helmet at each ballpark I visit as a souvenir—or so I tell myself—and here you get to pick what color helmet you want AND you get a sticker pack so you can choose which team logo you want to on the helmet! Oh, and the ice cream itself was fine.
The crowd trickled in late because holy shit the traffic, but once everyone was settled in the atmosphere was buoyant. Fans behind the Diablos dugout waved giant flags and other hardcore fans were littered around the seating bowl, blasting air horns and rattling noise makers throughout the game. When the Diablos scored, which was a lot, a coordinated chant bellowed out from the crowd. I had no idea what was being chanted but the row behind us was really into it. There are plenty of great fan clubs and rowdy atmospheres in Major League ballparks, but the vibe of a Diablos game is much different and a vibe I wish American fans and stadiums would embrace. The closest comparison I can think of are the A’s fans who bang drums, chant, and hang homemade banners throughout the outfield, but, well, alas. The Phillies have the Phandemic Krew but they’re just a handful of people hidden way up in the 300 level and the Bleacher Bums at Yankee Stadium are notorious, although not always for the right reasons.
Much like an NBA game, music is played almost continuously during the game. I have to admit, I wasn’t a fan. Call me an oldhead, but I prefer organic crowd noise to piped in music. Also, the vendors are NON-STOP. There is no peace from their perpetual up-and-down hawking. On one hand it’s cool that, unlike here, you can order from a concession stand through a vendor without missing the game. On the other hand…I just want to watch the game without constant interruptions!
A breath of fresh air was the absence of advertising. Don’t get me wrong, there are ads- most notably on the uniforms and dugouts- but the outfield walls are not plastered with them, nor is every inch of the stadium sponsored or “presented by” some corporate brand.
As players took the field a few minutes prior to first pitch, I readied myself to stand at attention and remove my cap. However, there was no anthem, nor was there a Salute a Soldier or any other patriotic/nationalist/militaristic propaganda being peddled. One game is a small sample size, but I’m not sure If They Don’t Win It’s a Shame would be possible in Mexico—and that’s a good thing.
All in all, I really dug the stadium and I really dug the game experience. If you want to learn about the design of Estadio Alfredo Harp Helu, check this link out.
One other note—hours before the game I realized my favorite player and disgraced steroid user, Robinson Cano, is on the team. I never thought I’d see him play again! As it turned out, I didn’t see him play again. He sat the bench. I did some research afterward and he doesn’t play that often. My guy, if you can’t start in Mexico, hang the cleats up or get back on the juice.
Please excuse me for this travel blog style newsletter, it’s not what you signed up for. Please also excuse the photographs. I was there for pleasure, not work. At least I have an excuse to come back and make real photographs!
